Now for the fun part.   As you can see, we're using a different circuit for this than we did for the Intellivision modification.  This, again, came about after some research on the internet to see whether or not anyone else had done this before (and also to track down a schematic or service manual to work from!); some others who had tried doing this kind of modification to their Colecovisions reported problems with the single-transistor emitter-follower circuit loading down the signal more than expected.  This circuit, using an LM318 op-amp configured as a voltage-follower (i.e. non-inverting, with a gain of 1:1) seemed to be the preferred method; the LM318 has a much higher input impedance.  (For that matter, this design would probably work just fine for the Intellivision as well; the primary advantages of the single 2N3904-transistor amp are its simplicity, and the easy availability of the parts.  Not that the LM318 is a particularly exotic part, to be sure, but...)

PARTS LIST:
C1	47uF, 25V aluminum electrolytic
C2	10uF, 25V aluminum electrolytic
C3	27pF 25V ceramic
R1, R2	10K 1/4W 5% resistor
R3	75 ohm 1/4W 5% resistor
U1	LM318 op-amp
You will also need: a piece of perfboard about 1" - 1.5" square (size isn't critical); shielded coax cable (about 48" total) and some regular hookup wire; a pair of panel-mountable RCA jacks (such as Radio Shack #274-346)

Note the use of an LM318H part, in the "old-school" TO-5 "canister"-style case, instead of an LM318N part in the more usual 8-pin DIP.  No particular reason, as such; I just happened to have some of the TO-5 parts in my parts bin, and it seemed oddly appropriate to use one here.   (Actually, believe it or not, the LM318H is still available from Digi-Key, though it's about twice the price of the LM318N.)

Unfortunately, unless you're fortunate enough to have a well-stocked electronics store in your area (and no, Radio Shack doesn't count), you'll probably have to turn to Mouser Electronics or Digi-Key for the LM318, at least.  However, you should still be able to get away with less than $10 in parts.

There's plenty of space up front for the video-amp board; just be careful to route the wires so that they won't be in the way of the controller-storage bays once the case is reassembled – and don't forget about the metal shield that goes around the whole PCB assembly!  Fortunately, there are already some open slots around the sides where the wires can be brought out.  Use a little foam tape to keep them from moving around.  Be very careful about mounting and wiring the RCA jacks, as there's not much clearance to work with between the back of the unit and the back edge of the controller-storage bays.