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Try to keep the board as compact as possible; there's not a lot of space for it!  Actually, there are other places it could go, especially since the upper half of the case is just empty space, but this little corner is a good spot because it keeps the wiring short, and keeps it as far as possible from any potential EM interference emitted by the AC power wiring around the power-supply side.  Plus, the board can be easily secured by using a piece of double-sided foam mounting tape between it and that mounting-screw post behind it.

Now it's time to tap the video and audio signals going into the RF modulator.  Note the use of shielded coax wire for both signals – it's important to keep these signals shielded; if you just use plain hookup wire, the wires will pick up noise from the rest of the electronics, which can make the picture noisy and unstable.  Counting from the edge of the board, the video is on pin 1, and the audio is on pin 3.  Since the entire RF modulator's metal enclosure is grounded, ground can be tapped via the mounting lug and carried over to the video-amp board via the braided shields on both of the audio and video cables.

Note that the +5V wire isn't shown in this photo, since I hadn't added it yet.  You can tap +5V from pin 14 of the IC shown – actually, it can be tapped from any one of the four 14-pin TTL IC's clustered in that corner.  NOTE: Do not try to tap power from "VCC" (pin #2) of the RF modulator!  The modulator runs on +12V, not +5V.  (+5V can also be tapped off of pin 1 of the power connector, all the way over at the other end of the board... in fact, you can find lots of places on the schematic to tap +5V; the problem is finding them on the board since there's no silkscreening to indicate which components are which.)

Run the wires over to the corner where the video-amp board is to be mounted.  Try to keep them as short as possible, and using a piece or two of double-sided foam mounting tape to secure them wouldn't hurt.  Note that to get them out past the metal shield, you'll need to trim away a bit of it at the corner – fortunately, the metal is thin and fairly easy to cut, even with just a pair of wire cutters.  And yes, you do need the shield enclosure; don't even think of putting the Intellivision back together without it, or you really will have an ugly, distorted picture!  (Not to mention complaints from everyone else in the house when your Intellivision hoses up the radio reception every time you turn it on!)