Now, it's time to modify the joysticks.  If your console is one of the ones that has removable joysticks, you could skip this step if you don't feel like doing the extra work – but the advantage to this modification is that you'll be able to use standard Atari-style 9-pin joysticks in place of the Odyssey² sticks.  Not that there's anything wrong with the original Odyssey² joysticks (at least, I don't think so), but if they ever do break down on you, spare Atari-style joysticks are a lot easier to come by than Odyssey controllers!

This schematic shows how to rewire the joystick into a DB-9F connector, which is the type of connector used on Atari sticks.  The Odyssey² sticks are attached to the game board via a 6-pin, 0.100" Molex-type connector; just pull this connector off the board and cut it off, then solder the wires to the DB-9F connector.

NOTE: the following wire colors were right for the joysticks attached to my console, but I'd recommend confirming them with an ohmmeter before you start soldering.

And this is how to wire up the matching DB-9M connector to the 6-pin Molex.  18-24" of ribbon cable or other multi-conductor wire should be more than sufficient to reach from the front of the console to the back.  Granted, mounting them on the front isn't the most aesthetic choice, but it was too tight a tight squeeze to mount them on the rear of the unit and still have everything fit together properly – especially since I have a Voice unit, which covers up what would otherwise be a good spot to mount the connectors.

And here we see the top half of the console with everything mounted into place.  The amp board is screwed down to one of the mounting posts originally used for the RF modulator, the two DB-9M jacks are screwed to the front with #4-40 hardware, and the wires are secured down with the handyman's secret weapon – duct tape.  (Yes, duct tape comes in black.)